1979 Catalina 25 Sailboat For Sale

Very brief description of the sailboat, trailer, and motor

I've decided to sell my 1979 Catalina 25 sailboat.  It's the early model with only two cockpit lockers and internal fuel storage. 

The boat is well equipped and in excellent mechanical condition.  It's 45 years old, so don't expect cosmetic perfection.  I've made lots of repairs and improvements including refurbished and faired swing keel, new standing and running rigging.  Entire new electrical system featuring solar panels, autopilot, navigation system, stereo, electric bilge pump, LED lights.  Cabin woodwork was recently stripped and refinished with varnish.  Exterior brightwork refinished (Cetol, not varnish) and much, much more.  Yes, I have the title.

Tandem axle galvanized steel trailer with 64 rollers, in good condition, ready to tow, custom fitted to the boat.

Yamaha 10 hp 4-stroke electric start outboard engine runs great!

Catalina 25 General Specifications

The Catalina 25 was offered with a bewildering array of factory options.  For your convenience, here are the basic specs for my boat, in case you're not familiar with this model.

The one I'm selling has:

• swing keel, not fin or wing.
• The standard mast with split backstay, not the tall rig or single offset backstay.
• Stainless steel spreader sockets, not cast aluminum.
• Dinette interior, not either of the traditional layouts offered.
• Marine head and sink, not the pota-potty and second hanging locker.
• Pop-top, not one-piece deck.  Foredeck vent, not a deck prism.
• Cockpit coaming pockets added, like later years.
• Came with only two cockpit lockers with portable gas tank stored below deck, not three cockpit lockers with tank kept above deck under third cover.
• Tempered glass windows with aluminum frames, not plastic ones screwed and glued to fiberglass.
• Full bow and stern railings with lifelines, deluxe transom swim ladder to stbd.
• Outboard motor on port, not on starboard or inboard diesel or gas.
• Has the early style rudder, not balanced version or kick-up versions.
• (Aftermarket kick-up rudder included with sale.)
• Full length stem fitting with anchor roller, not the small bow fitting which can pull out and/or damage the foredeck.
• Dual bank batteries, not single battery.

Hull Details

Below the waterline, hull has been stripped to solid fiberlass, gelcoat blisters repaired, refaired using epoxy-based materials, and barrier coated.  Waterline boot stripe has been raised to account for added weight of cruising features and gear.  Original 'to-hull' penetrations have been upgraded to genuine naval bronze faired through hulls with bronze and stainless steel ball valves where possible.

Rudder gudgeons have been replaced with latest factory upgrades, through-bolted with larger fasteners for strength.  Bolt holes in cored transom have been reinforced using drill 2x, refill, redrill method using fiberglass reinforced epoxy.

Swing Keel Details

Cast iron swing keel has been completely sand blasted, reconditioned, and faired using epoxy-based products.  Pivot hole in keel now has a bronze bushing bearing.  All removable swing keel hardware has been replaced. Sacrificial anodes have been added to reduce corrosion.  Keel pivot area of hull has been reinforced.  Swing keel position indicator has been added.  Keel winch and cable have been replaced every few years, including recently.

Rudder Details

The boat has an early factory rudder on it now.  Included in the sale are additional rudders for the boat which I didn't get around to experimenting with.

Deck and Cockpit Features

Cockpit coaming pockets from a Catalina 22 have been added, similar to later model Catalina 25s.

Cockpit drains have been enlarged from 1" to 1-1/2".

Load bearing penetrations in deck core have been sealed and reinforced with fiberglass filled epoxy resin compression bushings cast in place using the drill 2x, refill, redrill method.  Original teak handrails have been moved forward to accommodate added cabin top winches and clutches.

Exterior bright work has been coated with Cetol, but is due for refinishing.  Worn sliding hatch and tracks repaired and reinforced with fiberglass and epoxy.

Windows (port lights) are tempered glass in aluminum frames, not plastic.  Frames have been removed and resealed using factory materials kit and butyl sealant (in case they ever need to come apart again).

Original 'clothes drier' locker vents have been removed, and stern docking cleats relocated in their place.  All 4 docking cleats have successfuly held the boat through category 2 and 3 hurricanes with 2' waves.

Cabin

All interior woodwork including bulkheads, was removed, water damage repaired using epoxy, and refinished with 4 coats of marine varnish.

Galley Area

Larger than original galley sink.  Sink drain plumbing increased to 1" diameter.  Original manual pump replaced with pressure water tap.

Ice box insulation increased by 2", shutoff valve added to drain to prevent back flow.  Added grab handle for safety when heeled.

Galley stove converted from alcohol to propane.  Propane canister with manual and electric shutoff valves in stbd cockpit locker with drain overboard for safety.  (Stove is presently reassembling after I cleaned some tarnish off the stainless steel.  Electric shutoff valve included, but not yet installed.)

Replaced original plastic galley overhead light fixture with new stainless steel one, converted to white/red LEDs.  Added same model new fixture on stbd side above electrical panel.

Dinette Area

Replaced original table with higher quality one, added hold-downs to prevent table falling if bumped.  Added 12.VDC and 120.vac power outlets at table.  Replaced original dinette overhead light fixture with classic wood and brass one, converted to white/red LEDs.

V-Berth

Replaced original light with articulated reading lamp.  Added P&S gear hammocks.  Refinished 'cat berth' still needs reassembling.

Quarter Berth

Replaced original plastic overhead light fixture with new stainless steel one, converted to white/red LEDs, added light switches at both ends of berth.  Added gear hammock. Midship mattress removed to increase storage space.  (Still have the mattress.)

Head Compartment

Oringinal porta-potty replaced with marine head (MSD) which flushes into a 16 gallon holding tank under the V-berth. All waste hoses are OdorSafe brand, with siphon breaker in supply line. Teak handholds added for use when heeled or in waves.  Original worn out accordion fold doors replaced with decorative beach towel privacy curtains.  (Also handy for drying hands!)

Head sink hand pump replaced with pressure water tap.

Somewhat intrusive wooden boxes are speaker cabinets which greatly improve sound of stereo.

Replaced original plastic overhead light fixtures with new stainless steel ones, converted to white/red LEDs.

 Storage Lockers

Cabin storage locker lids have been coated with epoxy resin to prevent water damage.  Interior of some lockers has been refinished with white epoxy resin. 

Locker under aft dinette seat was converted into a thickly insulated ice box for long trips. However, you may want to remove it for more storage.   Boat also comes with a 12V/120v refrigerator capable of freezing ice cream to 0°F.

Plumbing

Though Hulls & Seacocks

Starting from the bow:

The head sink1-1/2" bronze through hull is backed by a 1-1/2" bronze and stainless steel ball valve sea cock located under the V-verth which is the discharge from the offshore holding tank pump.

Below the head sink is a 3/4" bronze through hull backed by a 3/4" bronze and stainless steel ball valve sea cock topped with a T-fitting. This through hull serves two purposes.  When daysailing, the valve can be closed, and sink water used to flush the marine head.  On longer trips, the valve can be opened to allow the sink to drain overboard, and the head to flush using seawater.

There is a custom through hull located immediately behind the mast compression post atop the keel trunk. Through it passes a light line used to indicate swing keel position.  This line is tensioned by a bungy cord under the fwd dinette seat.

Under the galley ice box is a 1" bronze through hull backed by a 1" bronze and stainless steel ball valve sea cock topped with a T-fitting.  The through path of the T-fitting allows the galley sink to drain overboard.  The leg of the T-fitting drains the ice box through a PVC ball valve below the stove.

Under the companionway ladder through the keel trunk is a bronze pipe topped with a stiff strong hose to pass the swing keel lift cable.

In the cockpit sole at the transom are two drains leading to Marlon through hulls.

Bilge Pumps

Each bilge pump discharges through a separate transom through hull well above the heeled waterline.

There is a 3,700 GPH electric damage control pump with float switch under the galley area.

There is plumbing and wiring in place for a small automatic bilge pump under the cabin sole, but the pump needs replacing.

There is a 16 GPM manual bilge pump in the cockpit within reach of the helmsman.

Holding Tank Pump

There is a manual offshore discharge pump for the 16 gallon holding tank under the V-berth. The holding tank uses only OdorSafe brand hoses, including dual 1" diameter vents to promote air cross flow inside the tank.  Holding tank is usually pumped out through a deck fitting.

Pressure Water Pump

There is an automatic pressure water pump with selector valves for two port & stbd 16 gallon fresh water tanks.  Pressure water is supplied to the galley and head sinks.  It would be relatively easy to add a cockpit shower using a kitchen sink dish rinsing hose with a ball valve cutoff.

Ice Box

The galley ice box drain has been routed through a shutoff valve to prevent seawater from backing up into the ice box while sailing on starboard tack.

MSD (head) & Holding Tank

Marine head (MSD) with manual pump into 16 gallon holding tank under V-berth.  All head waste hoses are OdorSafe brand, with siphon breaker on supply line.

All New Electrical System!

Entire original electrical system was removed, and replaced with a newly designed system using all marine grade wiring, components, and techniques. Resetable circuit breakers are used in place of fuses.  Screw terminals are used wherever practical.  Most 12.V wires are double insulated; shore power is triple insulated.  Most terminals are crimped, then soldered, and usually covered with heat shrink tubing.

Complete schematic drawings are included.

Batteries, Charging System & Power Distribution

This boat has a 200.Ah GC2 house bank plus a separate group 24 cranking battery, both with main circuit breakers. There is the traditional OFF/1/BOTH/2 battery selector, and also a battery combiner for automatic charging and isolation.

There are 4 solar panels above the head compartment wired in parallel to a solar charge controller with dual power monitors. There is an big old expensive 20.A shore power charger, but it quit working some years ago.  Honestly, the solar panels work so well, I haven't bothered to fix or replace it.

Each circuit has a separate circuit breaker switch on the main electrical panel.  There are ON/OFF/AUTO switches for two electric bilge pumps and the battery combiner.

Shore Power

Has marine 30.A shore power inlet inside cockpit coaming pocket.  Shore power safety ground circuit is equipped with galvanic isolator diodes to prevent corrosion, especially in saltwater. Has 30.A main breaker with 20.A(?) branch circuit breakers for port & stbd cabin recepticals, air conditioner, space heater, battery charger.  There are 5 shore power GFI recepticals conveniently located throughout the cabin.

Exterior Lighting

All navigation lights have been upgraded with new fixtures having LED bulbs.  There is also a LED foredeck light for sail changes and anchor handling at night.  There is a 12.VDC outlet in a cockpit coaming pocket to power a hand held spotlight or other 12.V accessories.

Cabin Lighting

Six high quality cabin light fixtures have been upgraded to LEDs with white/red color selector switch on each light.  The articulated V-berth reading lamp is incandescent.  There are three 12.VDC outlets in the cabin conveniently located in the galley, dinette, and main power panel.

Navigation System & Autopilot

There is Lowrance Hook-7 all-in-one navigation system in the cockpit protected by a mahogany housing. Features include SONAR, GPS, chart plotting, and much more.  There is a Raymarine ST-2000+ tiller autopilot (overkill).

Radios

There is a fixed 25.w VHF transceiver with masthead antenna above the main electrical panel.  Beside it is a marine duty AM/FM/WB/CD/USB stereo entertainment center with speakers in the main bulkhead under the mast.

HVAC

There is a (10,000 BTU?) portable air conditioner installed just aft of the galley which runs on shore power.  Hot humid air is exhausted into the cockpit via a 6" Beckson plate.  Any remaining condensate water is handled by a small automatic pump located below the galley sink storage drawers.  Make up air is drawn in through the boats cabin vents.

A small portable space heater running on shore power has worked well to heat the cabin while docked or on the trailer.

Electric Pumps

There is a 3,700 GPH damage control pump with float switch under the galley area. There is wiring for a smaller automatic bilge pump under the cabin sole, but the pump needs replacing.  Each bilge pump has its own ON/OFF/AUTO switch and circuit breaker straight to the house bank, bypassing all other switches and circuit breakers.

There is an automatic pressure water pump with selector valves for two port & stbd 16 gallon fresh water tanks.  Pressure water is supplied to the galley and head sinks.  It would be relatively easy to add a cockpit shower using a kitchen sink dish rinsing hose.

Standing & Running Rigging

Standing Rigging
Original 302/304 stainless steel standing rigging has been upgraded to much more corrosion resistant 316 1x19 stainless steel using Sta-Lok swedgeless terminals and bronze/SS open body turnbuckles.  Original single off-center backstay has been upgraded to symetrical inverted 'Y' backstay with roller-swaged terminals and adjustable backstay tensioner. Original foredeck fitting for forestay and headsails has been replaced with a much more robust factory upgrade bow fitting including stem strap and an anchor roller.  Lower shroud chainplates have been replaced with factory upgrade ones.  Upper shorud chainplates were removed, inspected, and reinstalled with bulkhead mounting holes reinforced with glass-filled epoxy compression bushings and heavier bolts.  Spreader bar mounts have 3 compression sleeves inside the mast to prevent mast wall distortion at extreme heel angles.


Running Rigging
All lines have been replaced with top name brand polyester double braid having class 1 eye splices where appropriate.  Main and headsail halyards have been routed intermally with great care taken to protect both lines and wiring inside the mast.  Spinnaker halyard is run externally for safety.

All sail control lines have been routed to the cockpit for safe and convenient single handing. Heavily loaded lines, such as halyards, are tensioned by added cabin top winches and held by line clutches.  Other control lines are lead to cam cleats.  Almost all running rigging is routed and controlled using free rolling blocks and cam cleats.  (A mixture of Harken and Ronstan ball bearing hardware.)

Mainsheet tackle can be set to 4:1 or 3:1 and has a selectable rachet on Harken lower fiddle block with cam cleat.  Original mainsheet traveler hardware has been upgraded using Harken ball bearing rollers and sheaves.

Boom vang is The free-footed mainsail outhaul is tensioned by 8:1 cascading blocks inside the boom. 6:1 ratio.

Mainsail cunningham uses 4:1 tackle to haul down the sliding gooseneck, tensioning the main's luff.

Boat is rigged for single-line first and second jiffy reefs.  The entire reefing process can be done without leaving the cockpit.

There is a multi-part adjustable topping lift with stainless steel and polyester lines.

Original jib sheet cleats have been replaced with Harken ball bearing cam cleats 'aimed' at the helmsman.  Original primary winches have been recently serviced, and are in good condition.  Their deck mounting holes have been reinforced with 2x oversize fiberglass & epoxy compression bushings in 3/4" marine plywood backed by fiberglass & epoxy backing plates.  They're well attached. There are 2 sets of jibsheets, 5/16" for light air, and 3/8" for heavy air.

Flag halyards were added to P&S spreaders.

Sails, So Many Sails

Over the decades, the boat has accumulated lots of sails.  I think there are at least 2 mainsails.  There are many different size headsails ranging from 50% to 165%, I think with more than one 120% and 150% genoas.  None of the sails are new, however they're all usable.  Honestly, we would need to spread them out on the lawn in sunlight, and maybe take measurements, to figure out what's there.  That's a lot easier with at least 2 or 3 people, especially if there's any breeze.

Anchoring and Docking Gear

All 4 docking and anchoring cleats have been heavily reinforced below deck with 2x oversize fiberglass & epoxy compression bushings in marine plywood backed by fiberglass & epoxy backing plates, similar to the primary winches.  Bolts have fender washers and nylon lock nuts.  They're not going to pull through the deck.

The foredeck anchor locker has been reinforced using fiberglass with epoxy resin, and sealed off from the cabin (which it wasn't from the factory). Improved water proof cover plates protect the backsides of the bow lights from saltwater, short circuits, and other damage from inside the anchor locker.  The locker cover has been reinforced with additional fiberglass and epoxy resin.  The locker drain pipe has been enlarged to drain faster, and resist clogging.

Mounted on a bow roller is a 22# Bruce style Claw anchor with 20' of 1/4" galvanized chain and 275' of 7/16" nylon double braid terminated with class 1 splices around thimbles, safety wired shackles, and a couple feet of 5/16" line holding the bitter end.

Hanging from the pulpit is a 22# Danforth Hi Tensile rigged similarly to the Claw, with a boat length of 3/16" chain and 300' of 3/8" nylon double braid.

On the stern rail or in the stern locker is a 10# Danforth with 10' of chain and 100' of 3/8" nylon double braid.

There are several additional 100' lengths of 3/8" and 1/2" nylon double braid with thimbles and splices at both ends.  These can be used as additional anchor line, tow line, extra long dock lines, or to secure the boat for a storm.  There are also 4 pieces of heavy chain with shackles which were used to tie the boat off to dock and seawall pilings during hurricanes.

There are 4 heavy duty dock line snubbers installed on three 1/2" docklines with reinforced PVC hose anti-chafe loops to go over pilings.  (The 4th snubber needs a new line.)  There is a second set of 4 dock lines without snubbers to carry aboard the boat.

I also have several spare anchors and some chain which I encourage you to take with the boat.

Yamaha 9.9 HP Outboard Motor

Has late model Yamaha 9.9 hp, electric + recoil start, extra long shaft, high thrust sailboat outboard on a heavy duty stainless steel retractable mount.  Motor has been reliable and trouble free. There is a 12 gallon fuel tank with electric gauge installed below decks with deck filler, fuel shutoff, and Racor-style filter. Power to the electric starter has a circuit breaker and manual disable switch.  Electric starter can be powered from either cranking or house batteries.

Custom Fitted Boat Trailer

Shoreline galvanized steel trailer with 5-lug wheels, tandem 3,500# axles with 4 disk brakes and surge coupler and heavy duty folding tongue jack.  Requires a 5-wire light connector, because of disk brake lockout for reverse.  Alternatively, I think there's a way to temporarily wedge a 1/2" bolt in the master cylinder linkage to disable the brakes if you're stuck needing to back up.  All 5 tires are old, but look OK. Trailer has 64 Easy Loader style articulated rollers. To access entire bottom of boat for painting, etc. just roll the boat back and forth a bit, then work between the rollers.   There is no tongue winch on the trailer because I never ramp launched it.  To launch and retrieve it I paid a travel-lift.

Optional Equipment

After owning around half a dozen sailboats over 40 years, I've accumulated lots of related parts, supplies, books, etc.  It all needs to go, as this is my last boat.  So bring an empty truck for all the boat related stuff I'd like to take.

Price & Terms

About the asking price — If you want to make a lower offer, then do so in writing after seeing the boat in person.  Be willing to wait a few weeks for me to see if I can get my asking price, or a higher offer than yours.  Sale will be cash only, paid in full when I sign over the title before we hitch the trailer.  If this listing is still up, then the boat is still available.

Related Web links to more info

• Catalina 25 Owners' Association — [Catalina-Capri-25s.org/forum/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=3] — A vast, excellent source of  infomation about Catalina 25 sailboats.  Search on "Leon" for lots of info about this boat in particular.

• Catalina Yachts — [CatalinaYachts.com] — Builder's website.

• Catalina Yachts parts department — [CatalinaDirect.com] — You might be surprised how many upgrade and replacement parts are still available for these boats.

• Trailer Sailor website — [TrailerSailor.com/forum] — Good source of small sailboat info.

• Catalina 25 Sailboat Data — [SailboatData.com/sailboat/catalina-25] — General specifications, mostly accurate.

• Catalina 25 Swing Keel System— [SailinCat.com/boating/C25_proj/C25_sk_idx.htm] — Mostly about work done on this specific boat's keel.

• This boat's trip to the Bahamas in 2003 — [SailinCat.com/boating/trips/Abacos2003/_idx_Abaco_2003.htm] — Yes, it can be done.