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Catalina
22 LED Cabin Lights.
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C-22 LED cabin lights conversion,
overview. |
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LED cabin light calculations. |
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LED cabin light pictures with captions. |
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LED cabin light conversion parts cost. |
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Overview of LED cabin lights conversion
The original cabin light
fixtures in the 1985 Catalina 22 were damaged by corrosion.
If they had worked, they would have been very inefficient by modern
standards. Therefore, something needed to be
done. Replacing the cabin light
fixtures with original equipment didn't look like the best
idea. Although there are more efficient modern cabin
lights
available,
those prices seemed prohibitive.
The plastic parts
of the old
lights, although a bit dated, weren't worn out. The
corroded
and inefficient electrical components were the main
problem. What about replacing just the electrical
parts with more modern
components? A quick search on Amazon turned up very
affordable LEDs and
switches. While updating the cabin lights, why not add the
ability to
select between bright white lighting and lower level red light to
preserve night vision? I mean, those red LEDs were really
cheap.
So a plan took shape to replace the SPST
rocker switch in each fixture
with a similar looking SPDT rocker switch. The original
incandescent
bulb and socket could be replaced with a printed circuit board module
having
dozens of surface mounted white LEDs. To add the dim red
lighting
feature, a dozen small red LEDs could be arranged in around the central
white LED module.
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LED cabin light calculations
In cobbling together a prototype, and powering it with a lab bench top
power supply, it was discovered that, although the white LED module
would produce fairly consistent brightness over the anticipated range
of actual battery voltage (10.5V to 14.V), the red LEDs posed a bit of
a
challenge. With about 2.V drop across each red LED,
five in
series
would light up well at 10.V, but wouldn't survive 14.V Similarly, seven
in series made lots of light at 14.V but were hopelessly dim at
10.V. The
solution chosen was a separate adjustable voltage regulator in each
fixture to power the red LEDs. Four red LEDs in
series would
be bright
and reliable at 8.V. A dozen red LEDs put out about
the right
amount
of light per fixture for one to find their way around in the cabin at
night,
although certainly not enough light to read by. So the
dozen 5mm
LEDs were
wired in a series/parallel network of three parallel strings of four
series LEDs each. Reading and experimenting
determined that
these red LEDs started putting out good light at around 10.mA of
current, and could survive up to 20.mA long term. Multiplying
those
values by three (the number of strings in parallel) gave a current
range of 30.mA to 60.mA for the 12 LEDs in a fixture. After
each
fixture was wired. its voltage regulator was turned down to
well below
8.V. With a sensitive current meter in series with one power
lead to
the fixture, and the light switch in the red position, the voltage
regulator was turned up until the current reached 45.mA.
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LED cabin light pictures
After removing all the
original metal parts, holes were drilled in each plastic fixture
housing for
the new components.
The rectangular switch mounting hole was
enlarged to
accommodate the new SPDT rocker switch by using a carbide burr in a
variable
speed Dremel. The new switch is shown installed in the photos
to help
illustrate the modifications needed to fit it.
No dimensions
are provided,
because anyone else making this modification might choose different
components. For
the 5mm
LEDs, there is a fractional inch drill which is a few thousandths of an
inch smaller than the LEDs. Using that drill bit,
followed by
a taper reamer, resulted in a precise press fit for the LEDs.
As an
alternative, the LEDs could be glued in. |

Drilled holes, front view. |

Drilled holes, back view. |
These two photos show the components installed in
the drilled housing, and the electrical connections between
them. The
black wiring is 12.V return (a.k.a. 'ground'). The
yellow wire is +12.V
going to the voltage regulator. The red wire emerging from a
hole near
the top of back view photo is +8.V from the regulator going to the red
LEDs. The red and black wires attached to two bolts and
nuts at
the bottom of both photos are the +12.V and return connections to the
cabin lights main switch and circuit breaker. The white wire
running across the
LED array and twisted together in the back is just to hold the white
LED circuit
board in place. A zip-tie or glue would work just as well. |

Assembled fixture, front view. |

Wired fixture, back view. |
Here's a bit of info about the adjustable
voltage regulator module used. It's based on an
LM317 DC-to-DC buck (step down) adjustable linear
voltage regulator
chip. Specs are up to 1.5A output at 1.2V to 37.V,
input from 4.2
to 40.V, with a minimum 2.5V drop from input to output.
This
item might at
first seem like extravagant overkill. However, these were
less than
$1.50 each, including shipping.
The original screw
clamp terminals were removed, and wires soldered
directly to the holes through the circuit board.
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 |  | Adjustable voltage regulator module. |
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These two photos provide a slightly better view
of the adjustable voltage regulator module
installed.
Note how
this particular module fits neatly where the original
light bulb bayonet socket was mounted. The long
sides of the
circuit board needed to be sanded down slightly to get a snug fit. |

Voltage regulator installed. |

Another view. |
Photos of the LED conversion lit up showingboth colors. The
camera used adjusted the photos to appear equal brightness. Be
assured the two different color LEDs installed do not produce the same amount of light.
That
bright crecent in red mode might be reduced by using 'frosted' or
tinted red LEDs, at the sacrifice of some overall brightness.
Consider it incentive to drill the pattern of holes for the red LEDs
precisely. |
 Switched to white. |
 Switched to red. |
Pieces Parts Sources And Costs
Quantities and line costs are per light fixture, totaling around
$8.25.
Purchase quantities are based on modifying
about four fixtures.
Shop around for the electronic components; price and availability
change frequently.
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Description
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Qty Req
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Vendor & Stock #
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Pkg Price
& Qty
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Unit Cost
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Line Cost
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Notes
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Original square plastic light. |
1 |
Catalina |
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You didn't toss them, right? |
12V LED white panels. |
1 |
Amazon
B01LW2NBK6 |
$9.99
/4 |
$2.50 |
$2.50 |
Consider color temperature. |
Red 5mm LEDs. |
12 |
Amazon
B01AUI4WC8 |
$5.57
/100 |
$0.06 |
$0.67 |
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SPDT rocker switch. |
1 |
Amazon
B0716BKJG3 |
$7.15
/5 |
$1.43 |
$1.43 |
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Adlustable LM317 voltage regulator. |
1 |
Amazon
B07LF3BYQZ |
$1.31 |
$1.31 |
$1.31 |
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Machine screws SS or brass.
(wiring terminals) |
2 |
Ace Hdwr
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each |
$0.15 |
$0.30 |
Fastener prices are estimates based on experience. |
Nuts SS or brass. |
4 |
Ace Hdwr
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each |
$0.15 |
$0.60 |
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Flat washers SS or brass. |
4 |
Ace Hdwr
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each |
$0.10 |
$0.60 |
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Lock washers SS. |
2 |
Ace Hdwr
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each |
$0.10 |
$0.20 |
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Self-tapping screws SS.
(to mount lights) |
4 |
Ace Hdwr
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each |
$0.25 |
$1.00 |
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Misc. wires, solder, etc. not priced. |
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Your junk
pile, right? |
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I used fine strand, fully tinned 24 awg with Teflon
insulation, but 22 awg solid copper & PVC hookup wire will work
just fine. |
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